Note: I am unfamiliar with etiquette concerning writing or photoing people without their knowledge or consent. In this case, though I share my experience about one particular being, to me he represents something much larger/deeper, both with respect to the energy& attitude he embodies as well as his uniqueness as a being.
I spotted him as I walked out from the passport shop. Veins, like blue canals ran up and down his calves. The separation of muscles near the ankle held my attention. Only repeated activity creates such a sinewy effect, in my experience. He stopped to put down his load; a massive bundle – at least 4 times his size – wrapped in synthetic burlap. At first I assumed his task was done, delivery complete. But then he began to cross the street towards the local sweet shop. I followed. I observed his strategy for crossing the busy intersection. Slow as he was, his awareness seemed keen and broad, aware of the lane-apathetic traffic on either side. As he shuffled along, limp now apparent, I stayed near. He was about to enter the snack shop and suddenly backed up and walked down two stores, reached towards the ground and picked up a mangled paper kite. Clearly stepped on and dirty from pedestrians’ dusty soles, he paid no heed and leaning on an electric pole, he began to tear the translucent paper into small pieces. I watched in anticipation of what would follow next. To my surprise and delight, he started a through and unhurried deep cleaning of his nose; using the paper, piece by piece to dig into the passages and scrape out what ever was there. I observed this open display and admired the lack of embarassment one might otherwise feel (in another culture?) for picking one’s nose in open like that. The kite transformed into a small collection of crumpled bits strewn upon the road. He turned and headed towards the entrance of the cafe. I intercepted him there and extended an invitation to share a cup of tea and a snack. He nodded and asked for a specific variety (boonya?), and a specific amount – 10. I did not recognize his choice nor did the waiter. I pointed towards a pile of round sweets on the counter. His style of eating was deliberate and mindful. Breaking the circular snack piece by piece, he threw them into his mouth and chewed well. During this time, he paid no heed to me, and my questions fell on deaf ears. He seemed in his own world, not dazed but focused. From time to time, he looked across the street to his cargo and also periodically focused on the local waiters that were bustling about. When the tea arrived, he let it sit and only partook once the sweet was consumed. I thought the hot tea would take time for him to drink. Rather, he emptied the cup quite quickly and I could not keep up. He asked how much for the tea and sweet. I said I would pay. With lack of any particular expression, he rose, headed to the cashier and began to pull out his wallet which took the form of a small pouch hanging from his neck. I downed my tea as quickly as possible to prevent the transaction, just managing not to scald my tongue or throat and told the cashier I would pay. As I did so, this silent friend left and by the time I exited to approach him, he was nowhere in sight. I returned home to grab my camera, sure that I would return before he did to his load. But by the time I came back, the bundle had disappeared as well. Amazed, I scanned the busy horizon, and recognized that slow canter and large bundle. I caught up with him and took a picture from the back as well as from the front. During the latter, he shot me glance that I felt as an intrusion of his personal space. A look not of rudeness, but rather expressing “what’s your deal?” I backed off, content with the experience as a whole. Blessing all those who have developed the capacity to bear huge loads, I returned to my grandmother’s house to write down all that I saw.
There are many like him in Nepal. In the past three years I have observed incredible feats of strengh and endurance. I believe, as the yogic metaphysics suggest, the body is an extension of the mind; a grosser form of it. I refelct in wonder the inner strength of these load-carrier beings who wander through the dense, crowded cityways and peaceful, steep hillsides with equal expression. All of us are yogins in the making. May we continue to grow into our full potential. May all beings be well, happy and peaceful.
Hari Aum Tat Sat.